BLACK SERIES

1. NEW-SCHOOL/WAVE CURVE
   On New School shaped booms the curve is concentrated in the first 25-30 cm while the rest of the boom is straight. This means that you don’t need to twist/bent your front hand even on smaller (wave) sails as it's still positioned within the straight part.
    
2. CLASSIC/RACE CURVE
   Classic shaped booms have a curve ranging further back to approx. 45cm. On smaller (wave) sails this means that the front hand is twisted/bent resulting in increased fatigue or even hand-wrist pain.
   The larger the sail though the more the draft (and with it your hands) moves back so that the front hand isn't twisted anymore.
   Bigger sails also have a deeper profile. Classic shaped booms with their curve ranging further back make the boom become wider in the middle avoiding the sail touching the boom.
   Therefore classic shaped booms are still the first choice for larger sized freeride/slalom sails (6.5 and up).

Carbon booms are 3 to 5 times more expensive than aluminium booms. The reasons for this drastic price difference are the massive difference in the raw material prices and the fact that a carbon boom is 100% custom/hand made. 

Since carbon is a much stiffer raw material than aluminium carbon booms offer 4 essential advantages:

1. When a gust hits your sail you need to pull hard to avoid loosing control. A softer boom bends more the harder you pull. This sideway bend results in the boom to become shorter. When the boom gets shorter the sail becomes fuller/baggy = loss of control.
   The longer the boom (180 and up) the more obvious the difference in stiffness becomes.
    
2. Carbon booms can be made much lighter (up to 20%) while still offering at least 20% higher stiffness. 
    
3. With carbon you can go for thinner diameters (up to 4 mm) while still offering at least 20% higher stiffness. In general the thinner the tube diameter the more comfortable it becomes to hold on to. This becomes very obvious once you go back from a thin diameter to a thicker one. 
    
4. Carbon does not bend. Therefore a carbon boom usually lasts 3-4 times as long as an aluminium boom because any overload (crash, catapult, ..) will eventually result in a bent boom.
   Also due to the fact that carbon doesn't corrode a carbon boom requires much less care than an aluminium one. Check the condition of the ropes once in a while and worst case get the grip replaced and a carbon boom will last for years to come. 

Under usual conditions yes. But for super heavy usage you need to differentiate between carbon- and aluminium booms.

• The worst case scenario on a carbon boom is a breakage when massively overloaded. Carbon booms do not bend though. Therefore carbon booms can be used without any limitations even when fully extended. 
   
• Aluminium though can break and bend. Therefore a heavy rider and/or overloading (e.g. wipe-outs/catapults or landing super high jumps) might cause an alloy boom to bend when fully extended. As a guideline for really heavy (ab)use do not use the last 15-20 cm of the boom range. 

You should always try to avoid getting sun cream onto your EVA grip. Not only can sun cream contaminate especially the lighter EVA colors. But more so the grip gets very slippery thus you need to grip harder which is very exhausting. Most important though is once sun cream gets onto the EVA the grip becomes slippery forever. 

There are 2 simple solutions to avoid getting sun cream onto your EVA grip:

1. After applying sun cream wait until it's fully soacked into your skin which takes at least 10-15 minutes. Since we all wanna get onto the water asap this isn't very practical though. 
    
2. Free your hands from sun cream either with alcohol (quite unpractical) or by using sand to "wash" your hands. 

1. Even for storage or transport please always make sure to close the length adjustment lock system. In the open position the snap part is fully stretched out and therefore might loose a bit of its snapping function after a while. 
    
2. Over time even stainless steel and aluminium parts get affected by salt water.
   Therefore after holidays in salt water please remove the tail-end and rinse it as well as the inside of the boom body with fresh water.
   For winter storage make sure to remove the tail-end from the body. 
    
3. Please make sure to regularly check the condition of the ropes (front- and tail-end). Over time the rope surface might get damaged through the clamping in the metal cleat. When you start seeing the white core it's time to replace the rope. 
    
4. The EVA grip is very cozy on your hands but it doesn't like sharp objects. Therefore don't rig up on concrete but try to rig on a soft ground (e.g. sand or gras). 
   Little cuts in the EVA you need to "ignore".
   Little parts peeling off can easily be repaired using super glue.
   In case the grip needs to be replaced (cause it's halfway gone or cause you cannot stand it destroying the beauty of your boom:-) do not try to do this on your own. It's a very delicate and time-consuming procedure which you should leave to professionals. 
    
5. Need any spare parts? Here you go

In general most people do not use enough tension here resulting in the boom to slowly slide down during heavy sailing. When designing the front-end lever we made sure that you cannot break the mast while snapping on the front-end.

We use a rather "cheap" Polyester rope here by purpose. Compared to Dyneema/Spectra rope Polyester has a certain elasticity. This tiny bit of stretch buffers peak loads (e.g. during massive crashes or landing high jumps) thus preventing overload and a possible breakage of the plastic parts.