"While I was waiting for the camera crew and the boys, I tried to get confident in the wave. I thought it would be good, to surf only the outside of the lips and not take any risk till the camera is on. Still, I ended up being straight in the impact zone, not on purpose, and I probably took one of the gnarliest wipeouts of the year.
I stayed on the inside for two big sets, and after that, my legs were shaking the whole session. It made me lose my confidence until Wesley and Matchu gave me a pep talk and made me realize that this was a situation of a lifetime. Thanks to them, I was able to drop a few more bombs, before getting on the plane."