TRAVEL DIARIES: FOILING PARADISE IN THE CARIBBEAN

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Dreaming of crystal blue lagoons and island explorations, Pierre Mortefon set sail on a catamaran through the Grenadines to explore the Caribbean foiling paradise. 

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One of the biggest advantages of foiling is the ability to explore places which would have previously been impossible to windsurf. Why? With a foil under your board, the minimum wind speed required to fly fast is lowered, add to this the incredible wind range provided by foil sails and the ability to go up and downwind with ease, foiling truly opens up a whole new world of windsurfing. Slalom World Champion, Pierre Mortefon, is one of the many windsurfers making the most of this new found ability to explore and took a trip to the Grenadines earlier this year to explore the islands paradise.

The main concept of the trip was to find a good place for kids, wives and of course great windsurfing conditions.

The island paradise St Vincent and the Grenadines is famous for palm trees, lagoons and turquoise water. We decided to rent a catamaran for the trip to make the most of the island adventure and it really was the perfect vacation. Welcomed aboard with a local rum and straight into boardshorts and flip flops – straightaway you are on vacation! On board with us we had my wife, Julie, my 3 year old son, Leon, friend, captain and photographer, Robin, two other friends and of course some gear! In our bags I had all my foil equipment, some freeride gear, some fishing gear and some wing gear. You always say, let’s travel light this time for holidays then you finish with 3/4/5 bags as everyone wants their gear - even Léon now!

Our trip took us from Martinique – Bequia – Union Island – Tobago Cays – Mayreau - Petit Rameau - Petit Bateau – Baradal – Bequia – St Vincent – Martinique.

Within 15 minutes of leaving the harbour, the dolphins were already playing beside the boat – a big tick on the family side! And with the family happy, we could go straight for our first session – easing into the trip with a winging session.

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The first session was from Salt Whistle Bay - Mayreau with the 7.9 WARP_FOIL 20.22. There is a really nice run along the beach, it’s short but so beautiful. I went out of the bay and it’s a different story, choppy, ocean swell! I could see from the map that the other Tobago islands are not far and outside I could see them, it’s not far. 15 minutes later I was there! I knew we would go there in the next few days so it’s perfect to have a look and check the place. The wind is more than 20 knots, the current changes with the tide, it’s moving strong! It’s beautiful with the light of late afternoon, they will be happy tomorrow! I go back to Mayreau fully overpowered. When I arrived in the bay it’s quite busy with lot of new boats and not fun to sail. On top of the reef, which is protecting us, there is some waves. We check this with Robin with our wing gear, it’s looks cool but unfortunately, it’s too shallow for our foil. It’s a cool wavy bumpy spot with onshore wind, good for kiting or bump&jump but with fin not foil! Later we met some French people coming from the other side of the island, Wind Ward Bay. From what they say, the spot is cool with less people and good wind but it’s clearly less beautiful. Here in Salt Whistle Bay, it’s one of the best places I have ever seen. A little paradise with palm trees and white sand… a true postcard. The girls are smiling, tanning and the little monster Leon is searching for every possible jump from our boat. Life is good!

The next day we take it easy before we sail to the Tobago Cays. I rig from the beach and we leave the bay - everybody on the boat and me sailing. I will go check ahead and see if there is good place available. Wind is again pretty strong for WARP_FOIL 7.9. I make a full tour of the archipelago before to go back to the boat. I am going around 4 times faster than the boat so I can go ahead and check the landscape. We arrive in Petit Rameau (the island on the west of the canal). We take a mooring mark because there is lot of current and the buoy is really close to a small beach. It’s perfect because I can let my gear on the beach under some mangroves and it’s cool also for Léon to run on the beach and make some sand castles.

The environment is just incredible and it’s great for windsurfing. We decide to stay here for minimum 3 days, everyone wants to enjoy sailing, snorkelling, making sandcastles and exploring! It’s great to have so many small beaches around giving us an almost private beach. Léon can play, mama can sleep on the beach and I can windsurf. On Petit Bateau, the biggest island, there a little path where you can walk for 20-30 min. It’s not an ultra trail but it’s cool to walk around, go a bit higher and check the lagoon. We see some big white geckos and some small blue one, different kind of cactus…

Its finally time to rig the freeride gear, Julie is full power! We organize with the other adults to watch the siesta of Léon and then we have 2 hours free. 5.7 SUPER_STAR SLS and 122l freeride, we go for a swimming pool ride. On top of Rameau & Bateau there is another island Baradal with a spit of sand, and on top a big lagoon. Conditions are great with 15-20 kts and turquoise water. I really surprises because there is more than enough water to pass everywhere with my foil, I check several times under water but it’s ok. We share the spot alone together then Robin arrives with his wing and 2 other kites.

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"The lagoon in Tobago cays was just perfect for foiling, even a bit too small with the top gear of Pierre! Watch out the turtles, they don’t hear you coming so high and fast!”

~Robin christol, photographer 

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We really enjoy the mooring and this place! Life is sweet here. The place is really great. You can see Union downwind, the other island Canouan on top. One morning I decide to go and check another island: Petit Tabac, it’s a small island on the east separated by a reef. I go out of the lagoon then go upwind to this small island. This is where Jack Sparrow was abandoned in Pirates of the Carribean! Now I am outside of the lagoon and there is this island of Canouan on top, it’s not so far. Since we arrived I’ve wanted to go for a longer distance adventure - it’s perfect here although a bit dangerous. Today the wind is not too strong and the angle fully upwind so if something happens, at least I will come back in the lagoon. Flying upwind, the sea is smooth, wind is great for WARP_FOIL 7.9 with my big front wing. I sail to Canouan, stop not too close to keep wind then I go back to the boat on a nice down wind, surfing the waves and enjoying a lot. The team spend a great day on the water, again siesta of Léon was perfect timing to allow me to sail together with Julie. He’s dreaming about pirates, turtles and dolphins. We organize him a treasure chase and he was fully on. The dream life for him… and for everyone.

 

This dream became perfect the following day when he asked me to sail on my board. The wind is not strong but we just want to go around and check turtles as we are in a reserve, it’s full and on my board we can go closer! Then few gusts arrived, I ask him if he is ready, I pump then we fly. I am waiting for his feeling, he’s just screaming! Fully happy, we go around the bay before to finally end the fly to the boat. Big big smiles on his and my face!

"I pushed Pierre to make sure he took all my gear and we didn’t regret it! I was super lucky to enjoy sailing in such beautiful water!  It was really good, the flat water in the lagoon, the wind perfect for 5.7, the water colour, the landscape and sharing the session with Pierre and the turtles! It was so cool so see them flying together also. It was perfect for a break and to let my mind be free.  This stay in Tobago Cays will stay in my mind forever..."

~Julie Mortefon, Pierre's Wife

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After those really good few days here, we check a bit the map to set a plan to go back in Martinique. The journey out to Union is normally easier than the way back as the wind is NE and the angle is full North/South. We want to stop again in Béquia as it was pretty cool and then also stop by in St Vincent and St Lucia. If everything goes well, it’s around 5/6 hours sailing every day to see everything. We head north, passing close to Canouan (the island I went sailing), then we see the famous Mustique (the billionaire island). When we arrived in Béquia we moor almost at the same place in the turquoise water close to the little cliff. It’s time for some snorkeling, we meet some lobsters, Nemo fish and even a moray. We headed ashore and made a tour around the island and visit a bit. It’s nice, the driver is pretty cool and knows everything. We made some shopping for fruits and veggies and also a few souvenirs. The village centre is nice, the ambiance is cool with lot of small sellers, you feel the Caribbean vibes!

Next morning we start again early, the plan is to go to the north west of St Vincent to make the clearance (a formality to go out of the country). We put the anchor close to the beach and quickly a local arrived, paddling on an old AHD Diamond from 1999. There is a problem, he informs us that the clearance is closed since the Volcano explosion. Going ashore its clear to see that the population is suffering and whilst our friend couldn’t help us with customs, we tried to give him what we can. It’s the first time that we really see difficulty on a local’s eyes.

We head ashore at Walilabou – the bay made famous by the Pirates of the Caribbean and for Leon it’s mystical and special! You have pirate flags and skeleton welcoming you at the end of the pier.

We use the connection of the bar to re-check the forecast. The wind is forecasted lighter and more east for the night, this is easier with less pointing and more reaching so we decide to go straight to Martinique. So no stop in St Lucia this time - we will miss the famous Pitons but it’s better for the whole team. Everybody prefers a calm, smooth crossing and then enjoy the time in Martinique. We leave St Vincent before the sunset, we set a relay for sailing all the night and we finally arrive at 3:30am in Saline Bay in Martinique.

With a smooth wake up, breakfast in the bay and a quick walk on the beach… we are still in the Caribbean! Leon is again happy to play in the sun after another long crossing. The wind is back and I am going to visit the coast around and the bay. It’s windy enough and Leon is calling me on the boat: “I want to come, I want to come with you!” So here we go for another session father and son. It’s so cool, we cruise around, I can even push a bit and at the end we even manage to go for a complete foiling jibe – so cool! We enjoy this day and a new cool night here in Saline Bay. It’s not bad at the end to have 2 extra days before to go back to Europe. The next day we have to go back to the marina to fill up the fuel and the water and also to complete our clearance and show all the papers.

 

After this we decide to moor below the Club Med Beach “Boucaniers”. It’s great there because the point is a good protection for the wind and the chop but the wind is perfect 20m away from the boat. So here we go! All the equipment of the boat is out, winging, freeriding, foiling. We really enjoy the afternoon before the last sunset beer to end this perfect trip.

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THE FACTS

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EQUIPMENT:

I had with me a Falcon Foil 81, WARP_FOIL 20.22 7.9 and 8.9 (which I never used), a LokeFoil Race with XS, S, M wings. You really don’t need too much gear as it’s easy to play with the wings. Julie was using a SUPER_STAR SLS 5.7 and a 122 freeride board. The 5.7 was also good for foiling for Robin or me in strong wind! Léon was stealing my or his mother board with his iRig XS. In total we had 4 bags with all the wing equipment. Don’t take more in a catamaran of this size.

 

 

ESSENTIALS:

POWER.XT 2.0 Extension – It’s a must to have to rig on a boat, I cannot imagine doing without it.

OtO Foil System by Loke – Having those special screw made my life easier on the boat where you have to be efficient while rigging.

Sun Cream – Super important to protect every member of the family. The sun is strong from 6 to 6 so take care

 

CONDITIONS:

North-East Wind – 15-25 kts every day during wintertime

Big moving sea and flat spots on the lagoon.

It’s a true Foil paradise, if you go with a group of sailors you can plan various long distance from island to island – this place is perfect for it!

 

THE VIDEO

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All images by Robin Christol.