Duotone Magazine No. 06

LIGHTNESS AND FREEDOM THE BLISS OF Photos Bogus Sta Matahi Drollet is one of the world’s best surfers. He was born, raised and still lives in Tahiti. He first surfed Teahupo’o, his home break and one of the most difficult and fascinating waves in the world, at the age of eight. At 16, he won the XXL Award in 2015 for one of the biggest waves ridden there that year. He has also been an avid prone foiler for the past 6 years. Here he explains why. DUOTONE 32 B L I S S