Duotone DRIVEN Magazine No.04

Eventually, I moved my camp deeper into the National Park which meant no more facilities and having to bring everything: sufficient water for drinking and washing, fuel, all my supplies etc. I even had to rent a portable camping toilet from the camp store in Exmouth as bringing one is a requirement for all visitors. Renting a portable toilet – interesting! I’ve been to over 80 countries, but that was a first for me. Camping literally on the water’s edge on an amazingly long, stunning windswept beach, was my highlight camp set-up of the trip. There’s nothing better than falling asleep to the sound of the ocean. At night the lack of light pollution in this remote area creates an experience, I would call a “bucket lister” that most people don’t even know exists: getting blanketed by the Milky Way in the middle of the desert. Watching the night sky lighting up as our galaxy slowly materializes after sunset is a soul- filling experience. The sheer beauty of a million stars twinkling in all their glory kept me awake and wide-eyed even after the longest day on the water regardless of my sunburnt little red eyes. For my last sunset, Mother Nature gifted me with a very special moment. It was a windless day with bright blue skies and I had parked my car on a snow- white, sheer endless beach. Like so often along this coastline out of peak tourist season, there was not a single soul in sight. The Indian Ocean sparkled as if millions of stars had sunk into it. I let my gaze slide through the expanse of pristine and untouched nature when I suddenly spotted a tiny black dot way up the beach that I hadn’t noticed just minutes earlier. I grabbed my camera and set off on foot. After a good long walk, my presumption was confirmed and my heart started pounding. Getting down on my hands and knees super conscious of not getting too close, I watched a pregnant turtle mama haul herself up the wide, fine beach. Evidently, an arduous journey for her, it took her a fair while until she was finally high enough up the beach at the base of the dune where she started to dig her nest. I almost didn’t dare to breathe. Observing this fascinating creature that shares a common ancestry with dinosaurs, push out her eggs, each one obviously requiring a great effort, was a mesmerizing spectacle. After laying all her eggs, the turtle mama flung sand behind her in a methodical manner for at least half an hour to cover her nest, before dragging herself back down towards the ocean again. Witnessing the motherly commitment and incredible effort of this beautiful creature to dig, lay and protect her eggs was a mind-boggling experience that I will remember for the rest of my life. The mama turtle made it to the waterline just at sunset. Watching her glide off into the golden water, I bowed my head in deep and humble gratitude to the universe – what a trip! R O A D T R I P 94 D R I V E N D R I V E N 95